Athens City Guide
A bakery-forward hotel, an ancient bath house and the best (real) Greek yogurt.
No longer just the gateway to the islands, Athens should be now firmly placed on everyone’s hot list (people are moving there…to live!) A modern mash-up of innovative creatives, buzzy chefs, specialized museums, and a fast-growing retail landscape (all uniquely steeped in ancient history), make it an important urban destination. And it’s a visual collage as well; from design that spans Brutalism, Bauhaus, and Neoclassical, to politically-driven graffiti and street art, the eclectic style echoes the dynamic culture. Polished, it’s not. But here’s a city that’s edgy, cool, and owns its sense of place. Come for the context, stay for the discoveries.
To stay:
Shila: My choice for anyone cool. It’s like staying at a bohemian friend’s townhouse house, if she were to be selling her stuff around the house. It’s charming, it’s pretty, it’s got a piano and an amazing rooftop breakfast. My Number One.
Mona: This is Shila’s little sister property. It’s a bit edgier, with a raw, industrial aesthetic, a shoppable design concept, and a vibrant revolving art scene.
Monument: Find this fully restored 19th-century national landmark (once designed by a famous architect), in Psyrri, one of Athens’ oldest, artsiest, and most vibrant neighborhoods. The entrance staircase really gets me.
Dolli: Currently considered the premier luxury hotel in Athens, this stunner has views of the Acropolis and a beautiful rooftop pool. It’s not cheap but super elevated in a city with a small hotel pool.
Ergon Bakehouse: A unique, bakery-forward hotel and culinary destination, this cool 4 star boutique revolves around the artisanal craft of sourdough baking and slow fermentation.
InnAthens: Built around a statement neoclassical atrium, the hotel's defining physical feature is its layout; rather than facing a noisy city street, the hotel's property wraps around a secluded, leafy atrium courtyard.
Hotel Bretagne: You want old-school/grand-dame? Well, here it is.
Athens Was: Just a short walk from The Acropolis, this 5 star boutique is styled up with iconic 20th-century designer pieces like Le Corbusier armchairs and Warren Platner coffee tables.
Apollo Palm Hotel: This is a more affordable option for those who want something in an amazing location (plus, it has a great rooftop bar that boasts views of the Acropolis).
Perianth: This 1930s Bauhaus landmark overlooks the lively café scene on the square. Inside, it’s lined with moody black marble and gray terrazzo floors.
Monsier Didot: A thoughtful revival of this pale-pink property on a quiet corner of Kolonaki feels (and is operated), like a family home. Since there are just six rooms, be sure to book well in advance.
Elliot’s Apartments: Feel like an Athenian in one of these nine well-designed apartments with patios, balconies and terraces. It’s more like Airbnb but well-designed and fully managed (great for longer stays).
10am Lofts: For a truly unique experience that’s not just an accommodation but an artistic, architectural project with a multi-level event and gallery space and a lower floor that hosts exhibitions, shoots and creative events. Snag one of the four lofts.
On the Riviera:
The Margi: Hidden in a pine forest close to the sea near an affluent village, the Margi will immerse your in the countryside, and the hotel’s organic farm is a short drive away, where guests can have lunch amid the olive trees.
Four Seasons The Astir Palace: This hotel is legendary, ever since Jackie Onassis put it on the map in the 1960s. Now a Four Seasons, it’s a no-brainer stay for a certain type of traveler who wants five star service, a Michelin starred restaurant and a spa looking out across the Aegean.
One & Only Aesthesis: Nestled on the waterfront near the high-end suburb of Glyfada, this is O&O at its best; it’s got all the luxe facilities. And, an hour away by boat will take you to the local island of Kea, where you can stay at the sister property.
To Eat/Drink:
Philos: Tucked into a restored Kolonaki building, seasonal menus offer everything from Santorini tomatoes to Cretan herbs and ripened Kalamata olives—all served beneath high ceilings and marble details.
Cafe Avassinia: For some real European charm, come here for moussaka, a carafe, terrace views of the Acropolis and of course, the live music.
Kapani: Near the historic Central Market, find an open kitchen that serves up octopus and handmade pasta that use ancient grains revived by Greek farmers which celebrate the neighborhood’s mercantile heritage.
To Kafeneio: It’s the kind of place where elegant Athenians go on a weeknight.
Fita: Come for the rooster with pasta - the kind of Greek comfort food that reminds locals of their grandmothers.
Pharaoh: This represents contemporary Greek cuisine at its pinnacle. The space sets a distinctly “new Athens” industrial aesthetic—very underground dining. Expect everything from Aegean sea urchins to rare Macedonian cheeses.
LS and Sia: Here you’ll get frequently changing menus that reflect seasonal availability. (Insider order: sourdough pita and tarama).
