Not only is Tokyo one of my favorite cities, but it’s also probably the location I book the most for clients. From LA it’s a ten hour straight shot, so it’s pretty much on every Angelino’s list. But it’s complicated and expensive, so you’ll need some help. Like Paris, this is a city where everyone and their mother claim they know the best this, and the best that, but I’m here to distill it down for you. Because truly, there are so many sick stores and restaurants (let alone all the beautiful cultural moments), that it’s easy to feel overwhelmed if you go at it alone. Because I basically inhale content, I’ve pulled intel from every substack (ever written) and print publication, compiled insider recs, and have made my own discoveries along the way - to put together an edited list to help you make some hard choices. I can’t wait to go back for a fourth time.
Favorite Hotels:
Janu: I’ve now stayed at a few hotels but this is my favorite – it’s the little sister to The Aman (which jumped up 4x in price after covid). That said, it’s really like staying at an Aman but for half the cost. Most impressive goes to: the hotel’s boxing ring and spin room. What.
Trunk Yoyogi Park: If you have your kids or teens with you – there is a great outdoor pool which overlooks a really luscious park. The lobby is tiny but the rooms are super curated with hotel pajamas that await you on the bed. Very cute.
K5: An excellent choice for boutique people (like me). This is a super cool, small and affordable spot.
Bvlgari: This is currently considered the “best” hotel at the moment – if you fancy, girl!
Park Hyatt: Unless you live on Mars, you know that Lost in Translation was filmed here. It also went through a massive reno. Classic, legendary.
Hotel Gajoen: This isn’t very central which could be hard for many people but it’s got some flava! Unlike the sterile energy that many Tokyo hotels can have, this has some unique design flair.
The Okura: Another great, more affordable option, this hotel was beloved for it’s cool 60’s vibe, but the recent renovation have left some people bummed. That said, it’s a legendary property that isn’t crazy pricey.
Hoshinoya: High-end and gorge, this is a Japanese brand that most Americans don’t know about. I love this hotel for its dreamy onsen.
Mandarin Oriental: I stayed here and it’s really not my vibe, but the views are bananas and it has the craziest pizza bar on the 38th floor that’s impossible to get into.
To Eat/Sip:
Harukor: Small and cool, the cuisine is from the indigenous Ainu people (how amazing is that) and it’s all locally sourced.
Tenko: Nobu Matsuihisa says this is the best tempura, so…
Popo: This is street food that serves the famous Japanese sandwiches (the Tamago is the one to get).
Onigiri Bongo: Another very casual spot for rice balls wrapped in seaweed.
Aziki to Kori – Michelin shaved Ice! Boom. They only accept four or six people at once though.
Savoy Pizza – Of all the pizza joints, this is my favorite. Get the tuna topped pie (it’s the best thing ever, promise).
Unitora Nakadori: At Tsukiji Outer Market, this is the “uni” spot for $50 bowls that are 100% worth it.
Higashi Yama: Inspired by the seasons, go for the “Fisherman’s Soup.”
Yakumo Saryo: Called “the most beautiful resteraunt in the world” go here for the breakfast course. It’s crazy formal and insanely gorge. An experience.
SG Low: The coolest. A door behind a door. Where the chef’s eat (walk to Studio Mule after – a hipster, jazz listening bar, for a cocktail).
Ramen Hayashida: The “one” is Nodoguro ramen, from blackthroat perch (they only make 60 bowls a day).
Isetan Food Hall: The lower level of this department store has the most insane food hall you’ve ever seen, complete with $300 watermelons and avocados wrapped like gifts. Your eyeballs will explode.
Seirinkan: Go here early and wait on line. This is such a cute, charming neighborhood spot with incredible pizza. Loved the backstreets vibe of the neighborhood.
Roppongi Robataya: A crowd-pleaser, especially with kids.
Seagen: A great option before or after touring the Tsukiji Fish Market – get a tuna bowl.
Sushi Go-Round Kantaro: Conveyer belt sushi is a real thing (it’s so fun). This one is in the First Avenue Tokyo Station. Fun with littles.
Sushi Saito: Only eight seats and three (!) Michelin stars, this is a hard reservation.
Kotaro: Izakaya in lively Shibuya – the cook uses pork raised in his hometown (it’s like that vibe).
Ginza Bairin: For amazing tonkatsu.
Meikyoku Kissa Lion: Coffee in a crazy cool environment.
Chatei Hatou: Come here for coffee if you want to die from cuteness. No pictures allowed!
Lion Cafe: I didn’t get to go to this kissitan (Jazz listening bar) but I’m obsessed.
To shop:
Ginza Motoji Kimonos: I’m obsessed with vintage kimonos, obsessed. This is a great spot to touch and feel.
Dover Street Market: The mothership. This DSM is better than the others.
Kyukyodo: A special paper shop – think calligraphy stuff, Japanese incense and decorative papers.
Kappabashi – Aka “Kitchen Street” – this is where I found Roman & Williams ceramic dishes for a third of the price.
Sacai: Surely you know this brand – it’s everywhere online. But the shop is tucked away and oh-so-cool.
Buly: This famous French beauty apothecary has many outposts in Asia but this one is worth finding. Best packaging on Earth – get the monogrammed lip balm for a friend.
Tsudura: For hand-painted lacquered boxes.
T-Site Daikanyama: My favorite book store in the world, period. Find indie mags, cookbooks and all the coffee table books ever published, all in a bright, stunning setting.
Auralee: All the fashion pod girls talk about this minimalist brand – I found the ultimate gray sweatshirt here.
L/Uniform: The daughter-in-law of Goyard CEO started this line and it’s fab. You can personalize a pouch or scoop up a travel tote (I did).
APFR: A great fragrance brand for all-things-scented.
Kapitol Denim: Japanese denim is next-level. This shop timestamps your jeans and even does in-house tailoring (if you have time).
Isabel Marant: Have you heard of this designer? Just kidding. Stop by for the store’s epic architecture.
If you’re into vintage: Laila Vintage, Amore Vintage, Casanova Vintage.
Cosme: It’s like Sephora but in Japan. It would help to be fluent in Japanese while you are shopping.
Art & Science: Cool and clean clothing – a boutique institution.
7Eleven: Pop in for a men’s white $5 tee – you’ll wear it on repeat!
To do:
Scai the Bathhouse: A contemporary art museum that’s inside a former 200 year old bathhouse, so I’m not sure what’s cooler than that.
Yayoi Kusama Musuem: If you are visiting on a day this museum is open, go.
Tsukiji Fish Market: This is the old-school famous fish market that you don’t have to wake up at 4am to visit. Make sure to get a guide who will take you inside, otherwise you won’t be allowed in.
TeamLabs: Everyone knows about this spot – it’s SO fun. I recommend the one with the water feature. You’ll laugh your ass off.
Meiji Shrine: This is no hidden gem but wow, is it incredible. Be sure to buy little protective amulets.
Ninja Samurai workshop: There are only a few samurais left in Japan which makes this this experience is so fun (think: throwing Chinese stars and shit like that). An interpreter is on-hand to teach you the moves.
Nezu Museum: This museum is pretty exhibit-dependent but the gardens are so breath-taking, it’s worth the visit for that, alone.
Mi Pig café: A controversial recommendation since some of my Japan partners think these cafes don’t treat the animals properly. My local friend says he recommends Cat Café Calico in Kichijoji as the animals are all up for adoption and have time to roam around and play.
Sumo Stahls: If they’re open while you’re there (it’s a seasonal sport), please go. It’s wild.
Gotokuji Temple: About twenty minutes away, this is the “waiving cat” temple that’s so cutesy, it’s worth going just for the trippiness.
Rainbow Karaoke: Every room is uniquely decorated and a free ice cream machine at reception.
Shirokane Ceramic Art School: Sit at the wheel with patient teachers to help
What to pack:
First off, please bring an extra suitcase for shit that you buy there, you’re going to want so much extra room. In terms of what to bring, here are some ideas:
You’re gonna need a cool extra tote. I love Dept Gallery anything.
Cool sneakers – this is Japan - you need to look cool. These Rick Owens are my fave.
Tiny bag for trash – yup! There are no bins on the street – the Japanese don’t believe in ugliness. Use something cute to carry your stuff like this Valentino floral pouch.
Wide leg jeans – pump the street style on this trip with these Isabel Marant jeans.
If ever there were a time to wear face gems, it’s in Tokyo.
Great list. Sadly, The Hotel Gajoen is currently closed. It was sold. A few other museums/art spaces to check out on your next trip: The Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum(former home of Prince Asaka.) It’s an art deco masterpiece with gardens and a nice cafe. Currently hosting a Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition. The Sumida Hokusai. The Suntory Museum which is more of an exhibition space. The Japan Folk Crafts Museum or Mingeikan.