Fancy a trip to Florence? Always and forever. The first time I visited happened to be over 9/11 while I was still living in New York City, which left a profound imprint on my heart. The second time was a multi-gen trip with my mother and oldest daughter during a literal 105 degree heat wave. I have both beautiful and dark memories from each experience - from the tiny hilltop pottery store where we watched the twin towers plummet on a fuzzy-connection black and white TV, to my daughter’s journaling about what she learned at Uffizi in a vegetarian cafe. That’s why I can’t wait to head back there this fall; because while I always try to go to places I haven’t yet been, I’ve found that return trips are so important because you’re probably traveling with new people, are in a new season of your life, or simply seeing the same things through new eyes. Below, one of the all-time greatest destinations on Earth - a city to return to time and again.
To stay:
Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo: Built by a prominent Florentine family who date back to the 14th century, this small hotel feels grand due to opulent family portraits, elaborate stuccoes, and Carrara marble bathrooms - but is somehow super intimate.
Portrait Firenze: Overlooking the Arno river, this classic hotel is all about contemporary Italian design. Part of the Ferragamo collection, it’s one part understated luxury, one part personalized service, and one part access.
Casa G: A tucked away boutique hotel set in a restored Ginori family palazzo in Santa Maria Novella. With just 15 rooms, frescoed ceilings and curated art, it promises a unique stay.
The Three Stands Guest House: This boutique bed and breakfast located on the upper floors of a beautifully restored 16th-century historical palazzo feels bohemian and authentic. If this is your vibe, you’re in for a special stay.
Collegio alla Querce: A newer property from the Auberge collection, this hotel is located on a secluded hillside in the residential northern part of the city that overlooks the historic center. The grounds are heavenly, making this a great choice if you don’t want all the tourist hubbub.
Hotel Villa La Massa: A charming complex that consists of a villa, farm buildings, barns, and an old mill - all situated along the Arno river.
Numeroventi: This beloved hotel was an artist residency in a 15th century palazzo - come for the apartment style rooms that are great for families. And on weekends, the chef in residence prepares breakfast. (Insider intel: there are many stairs so book if you like to get your steps in).
Villa Cora: Another option outside the city center, Villa Cora is one of the greats, with dramatic history, and a breath-taking property that feels totally removed.
The Place: With no reception desk, this feels like you’re visiting a cool friend (who happens to live in Santa Maria Novella square). Each of the 20 rooms are designed differently - and the two floor penthouse has a book-worthy terrace - so you’ll feel more like a local than a visiter during your stay.
Hotel Palazzo Guadagni: This hotel is truly an insider favorite, as it’s oozing with charm, in a renovated 16th century palazzo that’s close to Boboli Gardens. Ask anyone with taste and they will tell you to stay here.
Villa San Michelle: A 20 minute drive from the city center, the hilltop Belmond villa (which has just had a splashy re-open after a major renovation), is set in a former monastery and serves as a great hideaway for a few days.
Hotel Savoy: If you want to be in the thick of the action, Rocco Forte’s popular spot is always a good move. Designed for a good time.
Ad Astra: Situated on the “other side” of the Arno (which is less buzzy), this cool but quirky property is located inside the Torrigiani Gardens and overlooks what’s said to be the largest private garden within the city walls of Europe.
Lungarno: This is many people’s all-time fave. If you request a room on a high floor at this legendary hotel, you’ll likely get a balcony overlooking the Arno, with a front seat view of the Ponte Vecchio, and you can see the Duomo in the near distance.
Borgo Pignano: An urban retreat on the city edge that’s set on 12 acres (the largest private grounds for any hotel in Florence) which features 32 rooms and suites across 11 historic buildings, with easy access to the city center.
Casa G. Firenze: Another gorgeous find in a renovated 18th century palazzo in a great shopping location.
Four Seasons: This is my favorite Four Seasons in the world (and I am not a FS girl). The private gardens, the frescoed ceilings, the antiques….mwah, top pick.
Casa Howard: If you prefer small boutique spots (hi!) this 13 room hotel feels more like a chic private home, within steps of the Uffizi and the Duomo.
Grand Hotel Minerva: What makes this hotel so special was its renovation by Carlos Scarpa in the 50s, blending mid-century modernism with Renaissance grandeur (he preserved four of the original spaces, keeping the coffered wood ceilings from the 1300s).
Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni: This spot is very romantic, as it’s quite literally a medieval tower transformed into a private residence.
Torre a Cona: Some people call this the most beautiful place to stay in Florence; a historic private estate, with a grand Renaissance villa. Impeccably restored, the estate is surrounded by hundreds of of vineyards, olive groves, and rolling countryside.
Il Salviatino: Most people overlook this one; housed in a 15th century Renaissance villa that was once a noble residence in the hillsides of Fiesole, this feels like a stylish, oversized private home, that feels frozen in time. It has impeccable service, a botanical garden and in-room espresso machines. Over the years has welcomed legendary creatives, including Salvador Dalí.
Stella D’Italia: Nestled on one of the most elegant shopping streets, this boutique property is an ode to Italianità - with tons of art, old film posters, vintage railway timetables and quirky antiques sourced at a local flea market.
SoprArno Suites: Another fun boutique option - this is a small(ish) bed and breakfast in the artsy Oltrarno neighborhood, just a 5-minute walk from the Ponte Vecchio. Each room is totally unique with art you’ll want to bring home.
Oltrarno Splendid: The couple who own this hotel are real stars; with sublime rooms and quirky design, you’ll find freshly baked cakes to snack on throughout the day.
To eat/sip:
Cibrèo: One most people’s lists, this gem - located in the lively Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood - is known for elevating Tuscan tradition with creativity. Try the trattoria over the more formal restaurant (which share the same kitchen).
Trattoria Sostanza: An institution since 1869, insiders advise to order the tortino di carciofi (a buttery artichoke omelette) and the pollo al burro. Also, if it’s on the menu, get the meringue with wild strawberries. (Cash only)
Gucci Osteria: I’m putting this on the list as it’s a fun, glam spot for elevated Florentine food amidst gorgeous finds from Gucci. Touristy? Sure. But fabulous? Yes.
Buca dell’Orafo: Sometimes you just want old-school vibes. This one is in the basement and has a local energy and super authentic Florentine fare.
Cibleo: Florentine-Japanese omakase - the city’s first Tuscan-Japanese restaurant ideated by one of Florence's most symbolic chefs.
Vini e Vecchi Sapori: I’m obsessed with restaurants with handwritten menus and this one is run by a Florentine father and son duo. Insider favorites include the raw shaved artichoke salad, the pappardelle al ragù, and the tortellini with pink sauce. The vibe is warm, local, and they play the best music.
Cantinetta Antinori: Another crowd-pleaser, owned by one of the region’s most storied winemaking families. Expect Tuscan classics, a mix of locals and travelers, and a stunning historic courtyard that’s perfect in summer.
La Menagere: Low-key and aesthetic that acts as a restaurant and store with a long, stunning communal table in the back. Buy some fresh blooms or trinkets for the home or take a seat and have brunch. Stunning spot!
Trattoria Sergio Gozzi: Only open for lunch, very old school - mostly locals.
Da Delfina: If you want to scoot outside the city for lunch, this has a gorgeous terrace and ribolitta.
Da Cammilo: A family-run institution since the 1940s, this restaurant is located in Oltrarno, Florence’s historic artisan quarter. Come here for market-driven, and authentic Tuscan plates.
Gilda Bistrot: Across from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this charming little bistro is open for pastries in the morning and has a changing menu of homestyle Tuscan dishes at night.
I Fratellini: If you can deal with the line, do it! For some of the best takeaway paninis.
Trattoria Da Burde: This is slightly outside the historic center, but worth it for the best Florentine steak. (Insider intel: pay attention to the opening hours, as some days they only serve lunch.)
Trattoria Cammillo: A real institution, expect Tuscan classics on white tablecloths (Insider orders: celeriac and bottarga, fried squash blossoms, tortellini and tiramisu.)
Procacci: Timeless place to see-and-be-seen. The dishes to get are the bite-size truffle sandwich and the truffle butter.
Massimo Francini: The city is famous for Bistecca and Tagliata beef dishes and you can dine at what feels like a traditional butcher shop right outside the city for a truly memorable experience.
Vivoli: Located in the historic center, this old-school gelateria has been run by the same family since 1930 and beloved for homemade gelato and legendary affogato.
Marina di Santo Spirito: This is an informal and lesser-known seafood restaurant that’s coveted by locals who love the surprise appetizers, the salt-crusted fish and the daily raw selection.
Trattoria 13 Gobbi: A tiny space with amazing rigatoni and bistecca alla florentina.
Tripperia Pollini: If you are into tripe, this is the spot!
Ristorante Buca Mario: The waiters prepping the fish feel cinematic, and this is known to serve the best bolognese.
Fuor d’Acqua: Elegant without being ostentatious, this remains one of Florence’s finest addresses for impeccably prepared fish and seafood.
Buca dell’Orafo: Charming, effortless with high quality produce and a true sense of community - by the end of the night, the whole restaurant becomes friends.
Carduccio Il Salotto Bio: This lovely organic restaurant is supremely charming. We come for the healthy yet still delicious options (which can be hard to find in Italy!)
Ino: Not easy to find, in a narrow alley between the Uffizi and Ponte Vecchio, but a true gem. Salt-free ciabatta loaves are loaded daily from the local baker, and the seasonal experiments feel endless. Limited drink options; only one red and one white wine per evening.
Nerbone: In the heart of the noisy Mercato Centrale, look for the energy around this local spot. Everyone comes for bollito rolls (boiled beef in a panino dipped in cooking juices and smothered in salsa verde).
Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco: If you were curious about Stanley Tucci’s fave restaurant in Florence, this is it.
