For this Spotlight section, I really want to focus on magical hotels that are easily accessible from frequented big cities. And since so many of us need to fly out of London when we visit Europe, I went to check out the much-talked about Heckfield Place that’s in Hampshire, a quick 45 minute drive from Heathrow. When we play the “What’s your favorite hotel?” game while traveling, a work friend of mine with amazing taste says that hers is unequivocally Heckfield. So I tacked on a few nights at the end of Christmas break to see what the buzz was about, and oh shit, now I know.
The hotel:
What are you gonna do here? Actually, so much - and I was there in the dead of winter and there was still stuff. Heckfield’s big thing is “The Bothy,” which is their digital-free pool, sauna, gym, steam room, spa and cafe (note: kids under 16 are not allowed to even look in this direction, like, actually close their eyes). The no-kids rule is perhaps because it’s all pristine, with a giant indoor pool lovingly referred to as “the waters” that overlooks the verdant landscape, and a large skylight plant-based spa cafe with a menu that was designed by Heckfield’s former culinary director, the late (and legendary) Skye Gyngell. I got the miso ginger seaweed broth because my friend texted, I still dream about it. I didn’t get a chance to try any treatments but the ones that interested me were Sauna Medicine (a steam scrub and “leaf whisking”), and the Myofascial Release which helps with TMJ and teeth grinding. I also loved the Wildsmith Beauty brand at the hotel - they give you mini pots of cleanser that were melt-y and gorgeous. And my middle daughter and I wound up taking a mat pilates class with a lovely Polish woman that was really awakening. And finally, a little dream touch; as you leave, you’ll notice your luggage will be fastened with a leather Heckfield Place tag that’s embossed with your initials. This is an elite move.
Outside, this hotel has one of the most impressive farms I’ve seen. They grow everything from hanging squash to quince to 100 varieties of lettuce to shit I’ve never even heard of (and I live in Southern California). Their milk is pasteurized at the lowest degree so the profile is almost raw, and they raise their own pigs (we saw new baby piglets which were a joy and also tinged with a deep sadness, knowing…) If you choose to do an (epic) cooking class like my daughters, you’ll collect farm produce and turn it into the most incredible homemade pasta with bitter greens, sunchokes and pesto - the girls raved that it was the best, most fun cooking class they’ve ever taken (and we do them all over the place). Further down the road from greenhouse cooking is a giant “Wishing Tree” for hopes and dreams in the form of ribbons-tied-to-branches, amidst 400 acres of dreamy pasture. In the summer, you can go “wild swimming” and boating in the lake which looks like pure delight, if you like that kind of thing (I’m not).
Chillier months call for indoor activities and the hotel has a Hollywood-worthy screening room - but call ahead! The hotel is happy to give you a private screening of your movie of choice but they need to access a license so if they’re not prepared it could run you up to $500 (which is an expensive theater ticket). Or, cozy up in your suite with room service and watch Bridesmaids like we did.
Design & Rooms:
The hotel was a passion project of Dr. Gerald Chan, a Hong Kong born VC, Harvard grad and philanthropist who feel inlove with the manor. An extensive modern British art collection (owned by Chan), is displayed throughout the hotel which makes it feel contemporary, not stuffy (which is the worst, imo). There is bespoke cabinetry in the in-room minibars, overstuffed George Smith sofas where guests have been known to nap, and cozy fireplaces throughout. Fun fact: Ben Thompson, the hotel’s designer, was a former Studio Director for Ilse Crawford’s StudioIlse, the firm that designed Stockholm’s famed Ett Hemm (for interior design nerds like me). What I love most about the hotel is that I expected it to feel formal and precious, as some country properties in England lean, but the vibe is cozy and casual. There is a giant disco ball draped in wild greenery in the bar and an area designated for borrowing wellies. There are baskets with blankets in the restaurants for cold nights - stuff like that. Our room had a great sitting area (they leave a basket of apples and whole walnuts with a giant nut cracker for you, which we all loved) and the fucking best - and I mean best - robe I have ever put on my body. I tracked it down here.
Food:
We’re all still dreaming of the breakfast; the hotel makes the yummiest, chewiest sourdough (second only to the loaves we met in Copenhagen), along with “farm butter” and vanilla plum jam made in-house. The eggs were perfect - I had mine with leeks from the garden. The coffee…holy shit. There are two restaurants on property - Hearth and Marle. Hearth is cooked on an open fire and is all-around homier, but Marle has a green Michelin star and is airier and spacious. Both are seasonal and feature the freshest that the farm has to offer.
What to pack:
It was freezing when I went but you will need Hunter boots, no matter the season. Otherwise, slide your feet into the hotel’s stash.
Due to everything-grown-on-property-thing, this is a place where you want to go natural. One of my favorite brands is Monastery Skincare, specifically the Rose Repair serum.
A cool versatile vest is always a great idea in a clime like the UK. I bought this one from Wardrobe NYC last year and wear it on repeat.
It’s a great idea to rep something bougie like Sotheby’s at a manor house in Hampshire. Love this hat as a small shout-out.
Pick some produce with this British designer’s tote - especially while on her home turf.
Do not forget a chic suit for the Bothy! This one is demure enough for England.
When my skin is acting up during travel I use this mask from Skin Design London to re-regulate everyting.
My absolute favorite hotel I’ve been to!
YUMMY!!! All of it! Not to brag, but I think I just might be that "work friend of yours". This piece so beautifully captured the place and took me back. xoxo